![]() ![]() Low pressure systems are atmospheric circulations that rotate clockwise in the southern hemisphere. Winds can also cause small 'messy' waves or chop in the immediate area (i.e. Generally speaking, the stronger the wind, and the more time and distance the wind has to blow, the larger the swell waves generated. fetch-the distance over which the wind blows.duration-the length of time the wind blows and.wind speed (strength)-the intensity of the wind transferring momentum to the ocean surface.The size of the waves is determined by three factors: Wind is the principal cause of wave development. On other days, the waves may be more mixed, with waves of different sizes travelling in different directions. Some days there may be consistent lines of waves heading towards the shore. ![]() Wave conditions vary from day to day along the coastline. Read more about wave height and the terms used to describe seas and swell.Īnimation: Understanding waves. Remember, there may be swell present even if the wind is calm and there are little or no sea waves. This is the combined height of the sea waves and the swell waves. Some forecasts refer to 'total wave height'. There is generally one dominant swell direction, however in some areas two or three different swells may occur. These waves may travel thousands of kilometres from their origin before reaching you, arriving with very different characteristics to when they were generated. Swell waves have travelled into the area you're observing after being generated by previous winds in other areas.These waves are characterised by having a short wave period (time between the crests of the waves). Sea waves (also known as wind waves or 'chop') are generated by the wind blowing at the time, and in the recent past, near where you're observing.So what causes dangerous waves and how can you stay on top of wave conditions?įirst let's consider the two main types of waves. They can also cause damage to coastlines and property. While surfers seek out the 'perfect' wave, dangerous waves can put your safety at risk if you like being in, on or around the water. Powerful waves are a source of fascination when they break along our shores. ![]()
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